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London is often described as a collection of distinct urban villages rather than a single sprawling metropolis, due to the way it developed over time. Discover each neighbourhood's unique character and charm.
A square mile of restaurants, small theatres and jazz clubs that has been London's least respectable district for three centuries.
The name is a hunting cry, first used for this ground around 1636, when it was open fields. What stopped it becoming a fashionable estate like Mayfair was immigration: Huguenot refugees settled here in numbers from the 1680s, and Soho has been the district where new arrivals set up in business ever since. Every wave has left restaurants behind, which is why you can eat almost anything within these few streets. It has been the disreputable quarter for as long as it has been built. In the 1970s there were more than fifty sex shops and forty cinema clubs; almost all of them have gone. The music arrived in the 1950s, when the 2i's coffee bar on Old Compton Street put British rock and roll on a stage the size of a table, and Ronnie Scott opened his jazz club in 1959. It is still running, three doors from where the Marquee had the Rolling Stones and the Who. One street corner here changed medicine. In 1854 John Snow mapped a cholera outbreak in Broad Street, traced it to a single water pump, and had the handle taken off; a replica pump marks the spot. Chinatown came in the 1950s and settled on Gerrard Street. Berwick Street still has a fruit and vegetable market, Soho Square still has its gardeners' hut, and the theatres are all within a few minutes' walk.